Il Presepe: The Italian Nativity Scene

The Presepe is the traditional Italian Nativity Scene - but there's more to it than you might expect!

Christmas in Italy, like many other aspects of Italian culture, is rich with tradition. One of the most loved traditions for Italian families is the Presepe. A Presepe, or "Presepio" as it is sometimes called (both are correct), is a Nativity scene, but there's more to it than you might expect!

The Presepe Family Tradition:

In Italy, December 8th, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, marks the beginning of one of the most beloved Christmas traditions: setting up the nativity scene. This special moment is a time of joy, creativity, and togetherness, involving the whole family in a ritual that connects generations.

Dusty boxes are brought down from the attic or the basement, and precious treasures emerge: papier-mâché or wooden figures, or even simple plastic ones, but with their own history and memories, passed down from generation to generation.

A large blue sheet, dotted with shining stars, becomes the sky. The grotto takes shape with carefully crafted wood or cardboard, while real moss, gathered in the days before, transforms the scene into an enchanting landscape. Magical lights that simulate day and night are added. The whole family gathers around the Presepe to place the figures, each with a meaningful role: Mary and Joseph by the manger, the ox and the donkey warming the grotto, the angel watching from above, and the shepherds rushing in amazements.

But the nativity scene doesn’t stop at the grotto, an entire Bethlehem village comes to life. Thoughtful details and everyday scenes enrich the setting. There’s the baker at the oven, the fisherman by the stream, the blacksmith and woodcarver at work. Each figure tells a story, making the nativity scene a vibrant little world.

The most important piece, of course, is the empty crib in the manger. It remains empty until Christmas Eve, awaiting for the most anticipated moment: the arrival of Baby Jesus, who completes the scene and fills it with magic and spirituality.

After Christmas, the story of the nativity continues with the journey of the Magi. Present in the scene from the beginning but positioned far away, they move closer day by day, reaching the grotto on January 6th, for the Epiphany. Their arrival marks the last chapter of the nativity story and the end of the Christmas season. The nativity scene is then taken down and stored away, ready to be brought to life again the following year.

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History of the Presepe:

The tradition of Nativity Scenes dates all the way back to the 13th century. St Francis of Assisi is credited with popularizing the Presepe when, in the year 1223, he built a manger in a cave in Greccio using real animals and people and celebrated Christmas Eve mass. There were claims of miracles and healings, and the tradition of reenacting the nativity spread.

The Neapolitan Presepe and Via San Gregorio Armeno:

The Neapolitan Presepe deserves its own chapter. It is the nativity scene set in Naples in the 18th-century, renowned for its uncomparable and stunning craftsmanship. Far beyond a sacred representation, the Presepe is a vibrant artistic expression that embodies the identity and creativity of Naples. It blends the Nativity story with vivid depictions of everyday life and the culture of the era, capturing amazing details that elevate it to the status of a true work of art.

At the heart of this cherished tradition lies Via San Gregorio Armeno, a renowned street in Naples where artisans meticulously craft figures from wood and terracotta. These workshops produce nativity scenes in a wide range of sizes, with some pieces valued at thousands of euros. Visitors can admire the artisans at work throughout the year, while the street reaches its peak festive energy during the Christmas season.

Find out more about Via San Gregorio Armeno, a.k.a. Via dei Presepi, in our dedicated article. 

Naples also boasts the Presepe Cuciniello, housed in the National Museum of San Martino. This monumental nativity scene, one of the largest and most celebrated in the world, features 160 figures, 28 angels, and over 400 miniature objects - a testament to the legacy of this remarkable tradition.

In any case, wherever you find yourself in Italy, there will be plenty of opportunities to visit beautiful local Presepi, set up in churches and accessible in the big cities and smaller towns. And if you're lucky, an Italian family might invite you to their home to see their own Presepe and share a toast and a slice of Panettone together.